The Bullfight

A practical guide by Norman PT Renouf

CONTENTS

Introduction

1. The Bulls and Bullfighters
The Bulls

The Bullfighters
Banderilleros (Peons)
Cuadrillas
Matadors
Novilleros
Picadors
Rejoneadors

2. The Types of Bullfights
Comico Taurino
Corida Goyesca
Corida de Rejones
Corrida de Torros
Corrida Mixta
Festivales
Novillada de Toros

3. The Carteles
The location
The date and time of the event
The type of event
Toros or Novillos
The bullfighters
Alternative ticket offices

4. The Plaza de Toros
Overview
Seating
Other facilities
Souvenirs

5. Tickets
Where you can buy them
Ticket prices

6. The Sorteo and Apartado
Overview
The Sorteo
The Apartado

7. Before the Bullfight
The toreros arrival
Finding your seat
The scene before you

8. The Bullfight
The Presidente
The Paseillo

The First Bull (In a Corrida de Toros)
Overview
The First Tercio:  The Picadors
The Second Terico:  The Banderillas
The Third Terico:  The Faena
After The Death

9. Glossary of Spanish Words

10. Dates of Ferias in Spain and France
Overview

Plazas de Toros in Spain & France

Besides being an emotional topic, both in and out of Spain, it is also one that is difficult to understand and such a lack of knowledge inevitably leads to misconceptions.  Although there are numerous books, of all kinds, available in Spanish, there are not that many in English and, generally speaking, these are rather technical, lengthy and/or somewhat out of date.  What I have not seen is a short guide that explains, in an entertaining way, all the practical details that a first time visitor to a bullfight needs to know.  This guide is intended to do just that and the information has been carefully presented in both a chronological and logical order.

The first section, The Bulls and Bullfighters, is self-explanatory and this is followed by a description of all of the Types of Bullfights that one can see.  Even if you have no intention of going to a bullfight, it is impossible to avoid because posters - The Carteles - advertising the events will be on display everywhere; section 3 explains how to read these.  It is also necessary to understand about the plaza de toros itself, particularly the layout of the seating areas, the where and when you can buy tickets.  This information is in sections 4 and 5, The Plaza de Toros and Tickets, respectively.  The interesting processes of The Sorteo, the drawing of lots, and Apartado – the separating of the bulls, that take place on the morning of each bullfight, are described in section 6 and this is followed by all the events that take place Before the Bullfight.

Now it is time for the bullfight itself and everything you need to know about this unique spectacle is described in section 8, The Bullfight (A Corrida De Toros).  Section 9, Glossary of Spanish Words, needs no further explanation.  Perhaps two of the most common misconceptions are that bullfights are held every Sunday in every town in Spain and that none are held in France.  Section 10 Principal Plazas and Dates of Ferias in Spain and France explains the real situation.

Many people going to a bullfight for the first time will be fascinated by what they see but, as with everything else, if they do not understand what is happening, and why, their appreciation of the event will be limited.  This applies even more to those going with the preconceived ideas that they will not like it.  It is my wish that everyone going to a bullfight, having read this guide, will be much more knowledgeable about subtleties of this very complicated subject.  They will then be in a position to enjoy, much more, what is always an interesting afternoon.  It is time now to go to the bulls, or, as the Spanish might say, ‘A los toros’.

1. The Bulls and Bullfighters

The Bulls

Fighting Bulls (toros bravos) are not domestic animals and must not be confused with their other bovine cousins, who are only distant cousins. Toros Bravos are a breed apart.  They are bred on ranches (ganaderías) in many areas of Spain, but the most important of these are Andalucía, Madrid and Salamanca.  By nature, this is a very imprecise science, but each ganadería keeps extensive records of all its animals and the most prized are the stud (semental) bulls.  The cows (vacas) they are allowed to breed with are also carefully selected and each of the offspring has its own name and number; the latter and also the ganadería’s symbol being branded into their right flank.  There are hundreds of ganaderías, but they vary considerably in prestige; many aficionados (followers of the bullfight) will be as discretionary about the bulls they want to see as they are about the matadors.  In fact, the differences can be so clear that it is often possible to name some ganaderías just by seeing certain bulls.  The most feared bulls, and often the heaviest, are from the Don Eduardo Miura   ganadería in Lora del Rio, Sevilla, Andalucía.  These have very distinct physical features, are often the most difficult to fight and have killed more matadors than any other breed.  The bulls from the Martin Andres ganadería, better known as Victorinos   are also particularly striking.  They can be fairly large with a very attractive purple/blue (cardeno) color and their horns (pitons) may be distinctively upturned.


Young cows are tested when they are about a year old in a ceremony called the tienta.  These very serious occasions are often turned into a private party and the ganadero will often invite matadors and novilleros to take part.  They are let in, one by one, to a small private ring and will be enticed to a picador who will pick it; with a smaller puya than used in the actual bullfight.  If they are judged to be brave, they are kept for future breeding – the saying goes that a toro gains its bravery from its mother and looks from its father.  If not, they are later slaughtered for meat.


The bulls themselves live in the pastures   where they will have a pampered, but virginal life until their turn comes to be selected to represent the honor of the ganadería.  During this period, they are looked after and guarded by mounted herdsmen (vaqueros) whose only protection is their garrocha (a long wooden pole)   one of whose jobs is to ensure that aspiring matadors do not come into the pastures and practice fighting the bulls.  This is because once a bull has encountered a man in such a way, he will never forget what has happened; this makes it very, very dangerous for the matador that has the misfortune to encounter such an animal in a bullfight.  The vaqueros move the bulls around the ganadería with the assistance of steers (cabestros) that have bells around their necks.  Up to the age of four years, these animals are known as novillos and, as such, are selected for novilladas.  After that, they become fully mature toros and can be fought - subject to weight restrictions, as described in Section 3, Types of Bullfights - in a corrida de toros.  Some toros do not appear in a corrida until later; however, this is very rare because it is considered that older toros can be more dangerous.


When the animals have been chose for a particular event, they are moved into corrals and transferred to narrow, tight-fitting boxes, which are loaded side-by-side, on a truck, and then transported to the plaza de toros, where the process is reversed.

The Bullfighters

The collective name for all those involved in the bullfight is toreros, but there are distinctly different roles.   Traditionally, toreros wear a short pigtail (coleta)   that is cut off upon retirement.  These days, it is a small hairpiece, often made from their own hair, which is only worn for bullfights.  One thing shared by all is danger.  It is something that all toreros must live with.  There are comparatively few actual deaths, but that is something that is never far away for any torero.  However, gorings (cornadas) are very frequent and any torero, especially matadors, must expect to be seriously injured at any time.  Simply being tossed (a cogida)   happens even more frequently, and this can be extremely dangerous even without being gored.  If a torero comes down on his neck, the result can be permanent paralysis, caused by spinal injuries.  Such occurrences as simply being trampled, as dangerous as they can be, are just a minor inconvenience to these men.  It is the toreros ability to conquer their fear, whilst fighting a toro with artistry and elan, that sets them apart from other men and that, consequently, is one of the integral attractions of the bullfight.

Banderilleros (Peons) – These toreros assist matadors/novilleros during the bullfight and are generally called upon to place the banderilleras; thus their name.  Banderilleros can be young men aspiring to be matadors; toreros who realize they do not have the skill, or nerves, to actually kill bulls and even retired, not very successful, matadors who can earn more money in that role.  Whoever does it, the role is rarely glamorous, or well paid, but it is still dangerous.

Cuadrillas – For each Corrida de Toros, a matador/novillero must hire a cuadrilla consisting of three banderilleros and two picadors.  Sometimes a cuadrilla will be permanent and sometimes they are hired if and when they are required.

Matadors – Having taken the alternative, the ceremony when a novillero graduates to full matador status, these are the only toreros allowed to fight, and kill, fully-grown toros.  They are the most important of the toreros and the top matadors can fight up to a hundred corridas during the summer season (temporada) in Spain and France and more again during the winter season in Mexico and other central American countries.  These matadors earn fantastic amounts of money and have a social status equal to the most famous film stars.   

Novilleros – These are apprentice matadors.  They begin by fighting very young bulls in a novillada sin picadores (without picadors) and then move on to fighting novillos in novilladas con picadors (with picadors).  There are no hard and fast rules as to when a novillero takes the alternativa and graduates to full matador status.   The alternativa is the ceremony whereby the most senior matador (padre) and the other one (testigo) confirm matador status on the former novillero.  The new matador and the padre then alternate the order in which they fight their first bull, thus the name, alternativa.  Although a novillero fighting, con picadores, may often be financially successful, life is often much more difficult as a full matador.

Picadors – These have a limited role, dress differently and are the least popular of toreros.  They ride heavily protected horses and are recognizable by their fawn-colored trousers, with the right leg cut a little to allow the metal leggings to fit, and the small round, brimmed hat with a tiny plume in the band.  Their job is to pick the bull using a long wooden pole (garrocha) with a thick, short, pointed metal arrow (puya), which has a short metal bar about three inches up to stop it penetrating too far and is known as the vara.  The puyas are strictly controlled, sent to the plaza in a sealed box, and then attached to the garrocha before the bullfight.  This is the least glamorous and dangerous role in the bullfight.  However, if the bull succeeds in toppling the horse, the picadors are vulnerable as sometimes the horse falls on top of the picador and, in any event, they lack mobility due to the weight they carry - both in their metal protective leggings and, often, their own physical bulk.

Rejoneadors – Rejoneadors dress in traditional country (or sometimes Portuguese noblemen’s clothes) outfits and go through all the processes of a corrida de toros from horseback, although using different tools.

These horses (caballos) are expensive thoroughbreds and different ones are trained for the individual tercios.  Consequently, this art is generally reserved for the affluent.

2. Types of Bullfights

There are a variety of formats for bullfights and they are as follows, in alphabetical order:

Comico Taurino – Loosely translated as ‘funny bullfighting’ this most certainly will not appeal to many non-Spaniards, although it has its own following, particularly amongst children in Spain.  There are many different ‘troupes’, often consisting of midgets, with their own acts that have various degrees of merit.  However, the bulls or cows are very, very small, and to my mind at least, these shows are not particularly pleasant.  During each town’s feria, it is inevitable that one of these will be scheduled and, often, it is held late at night.

Corrida Goyesca – This is the same as a corrida de toros with the only exception being that the toreros dress in a style of costume dating from the 18th century.  It makes for a colorful and serious spectacle.

Corrida de Rejoneo – A format that is very different from all the others, Rejoneo, a very colorful and dramatic spectacle that revolves around one important point, the horses can turn within their own length, but the bulls cannot.  This is less popular than the other formats and, generally, the whole corrida will consist of rejoneadors.  However, it is also reasonably common for a single rejoneador to appear at other events.  In those circumstances, they will usually fight just one bull before the other matadors/novilleros..

Corrida de Toros – Matadors fight fully grown bulls at a corrida and this is the main event in the bullfighting world.  A point to remember is that picadors are always used in corridas.  The bull’s weight is also important.  There are minimum standards for the different classifications of plaza, namely 1,014 pounds (460 kilos) for 1st-class plazas, 959 pounds (435 kilos) for 2nd-class plazas and 904 pounds (410 kilos) for 3rd-class plazas.

There are a variety of formats for a corrida with the most common consisting of three matadors fighting two bulls each.  The most senior matador fights the first and fourth bulls and the others the second and fifth and third and sixth, in order of seniority.  As described in Chapter 6, The Sorteo and Apartado, they can choose the order in which they fight their two bulls.  This only changes under two circumstances.  First when a novillero is graduating to matador status and then the senior matador and novillero alternate on their first bulls and second when a matador is forced to retire through injury when, if there is only one bull remaining, the most senior matador is required to kill it.  If there is more than one, the other two matadors alternate in order of seniority, although they may agree to fight in a different order in these circumstances, and are also obliged to kill their own bulls as well.  In those instances described below when there is only one or two matadors, the authorities may hire a sobresaliente, literally understudy, who will participate in the event of injury to the scheduled matador(s).

On other occasions, two matadors will fight three bulls each and this is called ‘mano-a-mano’ (hand-to-hand) and, sometimes, one matador will fight all six bulls and this is known as ‘unico espada.’  In the latter type of event, it is not unknown, although rare, that the matador will fight a seventh bull.

Corrida Mixta – This is the least common form of bullfighting.  In this event, there will be a mix of matadors (either two matadors and one novillero or vica versa) fighting fully-grown bulls and novilleros fighting immature novillos.  There are usually six bulls in these type of events and, if there are two matadors, the most senior fights first and the novillero third, and this is repeated twice.  Picadores usually participate in a corrida mixta.

Festivales – These are rather different and are often performed for charitable purposes.  Firstly, it is the only event where the traditional suits of lights (traje de luces) are not used and they are replaced by trajes de campo   outfits worn during work on the ganaderías.  The matadors/novilleros wear suits with very short jackets cut to the waist, lace shirts with Andalucían style flat hats.  Their cuadrillas wear less ornate outfits with more flat caps.  Secondly, the participants, usually a mix of matadors and novilleros numbering up to seven, fight only once and the bulls used are novillos and usually have had their horns shaved.

Novillada de Toros – Novilleros fight novillos at a novillada.  These events can be sub-divided into novilladas con (with) picadors and novilladas sin (without) picadors.  In the former, the novillos will be considerably larger and although the legal limit is 1,190 pounds (540 kilos) for 1st-class plazas and 1,135 pounds (515 kilos) for 2nd-class plazas.  For novilleros to take part in an event with picadors is the next step up on the long ladder to becoming a matador de toros.  In the later, the weight and size of the bulls varies according to the age and experience of the novilleros.

3. The Carteles

Carteles are the posters that advertise bullfights and they are impossible to miss as they appear on walls, in cafés and bars and in many other places in every city, town and village in Spain.  If you intend to go to a bullfight, it helps to be able to understand these cartels and the information usually appears in the following order:

Location – This is almost always the plaza de toros of the town in which the event is being held.

Date and Time of Event – Except for fiestas and public holidays, it is usually a Sunday and generally starts at either six or seven in the afternoon (tarde), during the summer.  It may be considerably earlier at other times of the year.

Type of Event – Either Corrida de Rejoneo, Corrida de Toros, Corrida Mixta, Novillada de Toros or Festival.

Toros or Novillos – The number of bulls to be fought - in most instances six, their status, toros or novillos, the name of the ganadería and the region they are from.  If the region is Andalucía, it will state the name of the province, the most common being Sevilla, Cádiz or Jaén.

The Bullfighters – The names of the matadors, or novilleros, in order of seniority.  In this context seniority means, for matadors, the date they took the alternativa and graduated from novillero to matador.  For novilleros, it is the date they first took part in an event with a picador.

Alternative Ticket Offices – At many plazas, the ticket office (taquilla) is usually only open for an hour or so before the event.  However, there is generally an alternative office in the town itself, often a bar or even the Town Hall (Ayuntamiento), and the name and address is shown on the cartel.

4. The Plaza De Toros

Overview

Plaza de toros vary considerably in size, age and architectural quality and no two are the same.

There are even portable ones (portatils) for those towns without their own permanent plaza.  In fact, some of them are of historical interest in their own right.  In Spain, the Real Maestranza in Sevilla is considered particularly beautiful and the one in Ronda, built over two hundred years ago, is one of the oldest.  The plazas in the smaller towns should not be overlooked either, as many of them have their own particular charms.  Bullfights used to be held in the main squares of towns and sometimes, albeit rarely, even today, these plazas are used.  In France, also, there is a wide range of plazas, some of which are rectangular, but the most dramatic are the ancient Roman arenas in Arles and Nimes.  Plazas de toros are also classified into three categories.  The most important Barcelona, Bilboa, Cordoba, Madrid, Málaga, Pamplona, San Sebastián, Sevilla, Valencia and Zaragoza are considered first class; those in the provincial capitals are second-class as well as one or two exceptions like El Puerto de Santa María, and all the rest are designated third class.

Seating

Most plaza de toros are usually circular in   shape and the seats are divided into sections similar to slices of a pie or cake with blunted ends, called tendidos.  Tendidos are grouped according to their position in relation to the sun.  Sombra tendidos are in the shade all the time; sol y sombra tendidos generally start off in the sun, but become shady after a while; sol tendidos are always in the sun.

Prices vary according to the position of the seats in the tendidos.  The closer the seat is to the ring, the more expensive it is.  Generally, the front row is called barrera and the second contraberrera (in some plazas, there may be a slight variation, possibly two or three rows for each) and the rows (filas) immediately behind these are generally priced according to their level, with prices descending as the filas ascend.  Boxes (palcos) are located above the filas, but in smaller plazas maybe only be on the sombra side, and they are usually a little more expensive than most filas.  Gradas are seats in the highest position and are the least expensive.

Remember, seats located in a similar position will always be more expensive in the sombra tendidos and least expensive in the sol.  Also bear in mind that most of the action is conducted close to the sombra tendidos, so a barrera seat in the sol section will be close to the arena but not always near to the action.  It depends upon the view one wants, but often it is better to pay more for a seat farther away from the arena but in the sombra tendidos.

There is a huge difference in price between berrera and contraberra seats and the third or fourth row of the filas so before being tempted to pay the extra be aware of the following:  Quite often, except for the very best sombra tendidos (known as tendidos de matadors) and also during fiestas, many barrera and contraberrara seats may remain empty.  By purchasing a low number fila ticket, one is guaranteed a good view, particularly in sol y sombra, and if you spot an empty berrera or contraberra position – about five minutes before the start time, move into it.  This is not acceptable behavior in the major plazas such as Madrid and Sevilla, etc., and, besides that, the legitimate ticket owner may arrive late; but if that happens just return to your original seat.  Also, if you have rather long legs and/or you prefer some breathing space around you (remember it is very likely to be stifling hot), ask for a filo uno (1) delantera.  More often than not, there will be a passageway between you and the rows in front.

Other Facilities

Many activities take place in plaza de toros that most people do not get to see and it enhances ones under standing of the bullfight, in its total perspective, if time is taken to wander around a plaza.  In fact, the day of the bullfight is not the best time to do this as many areas will be out of bounds because of the presence of the bulls.  If you take the time to do this, you will see at least some of the following:

A small chapel (capilla) where the toreros pray before entering the arena;

An infirmary (enfermería) these vary in size and facilities according to the size of the plaza, in some plazas they are literally small scale operating theaters.  

Also a stable where the picadors horses are kept and, usually close by, a semi-open air butcher’s yard.  As soon as the bulls are dragged out of the arena, butchers start their work and if you visit this area just after the bullfight, you will see a grisly, but interesting sight.  Carcasses of the bulls will be hanging from the wall and the skins and heads will be in one corner.  If you have the inclination, you will be able to, also, watch them butcher the last bull.

If it is possible, try and visit corrals and the toril area as this will enable you to understand how the bulls are moved about before the bullfight.

In most plazas, there will be bars and public toilets underneath the seats and, in the largest, even small souvenir stands. Some plazas, Barcelona, Madrid, Ronda, Sevilla and Valencia, also have museums and these can be particularly interesting.

Souvenirs

Outside the plaza before a bullfight, in the major cities and particularly in France, expect to be met by any number of people hawking souvenirs.  Mostly these are of dubious quality and certainly not the real thing, just cheap imitations.  If you want genuine cartels, go to the Sorteo and Apartado, where often you can get that day’s cartel free.  Also, and an unexpected bonus, agents for the matadors/novilleros will often hand out color photographs of their man.  If you want genuine banderilleras, make your way, after the bullfight, to the callejon and then towards the butchers’ area.  Quite often, you find that the banderilleras that have just been used, wet blood and all, are sold.  You have to be fast as these are popular items and also ensure that the metal tips are still in place before you buy.  This is a way for some of the plaza employees to make a little money on the side, so expect to pay about Euros 10 a pair - have the money ready and do not haggle, otherwise, you will lose the opportunity.  If you are really keen, it is also possible to get hooves and possibly horns as well.


The most prized souvenirs are, by definition, the most scarce and difficult to get, namely the ears (orejas) and even the tail (rabo).  These trofeos are the matador’s novilleros to dispense with, or not.  Generally, they are thrown into the audience during the vuelta, and to stand any chance of getting them, you must be near the front and be preferably, either a child or an attractive woman.

5. Tickets

Where you can buy them

The plaza de toros ticket office (taquilla) – This is the only place where you can guarantee to pay the official price for a ticket (billete or entrada).  

Taquillas    are always open an hour or so before the event unless all tickets have been sold, in which case there will be a ‘No Hay Billetes’ sign outside.  In the larger plazas, taquillas may be open in the morning also.  During fiestas, tickets can be bought on a daily basis, or in advance, by the season.  A season ticket (abono) may carry a discount of 10% or more.

Hotels/Travel Agencies – These often have tickets for sale, or if not, will offer to get them for you.  The catch is that there is usually at least a 20% premium on official prices.

Wooden Kiosk Taquillas (LaReventa) – See only in the larger towns, these may be just outside the plaza de toros or anywhere else in town.  Each one will have its own price list for the tickets it happens to have and prices will vary between taquillas for similar tickets.  Again, there will be a premium of around 20% of official prices.

Black Market – Often, as you get near the plaza, someone will approach and offer you tickets.  The asking price will vary according to the event, its popularity and how long it is before starting time.  It may be considerably more than the official price, the same or even less if you wait until the last minute, though this last option is not recommended.  Remember, being offered black market tickets does not necessarily imply that they are not still available, at their face value, from the official taquilla.

Ticket Prices

These vary according to a variety of criteria:  the plaza, the fame of the matadors/novilleros/ rejoeadors, the status of the ganadería that bred the toros, whether it is during a feria and the type of bullfight.

The most expensive will be a corrida featuring the most important matadors fighting toros from the most esteemed ganaderías.  Prices for these events will range from about Euros 30 to over Euros 100,  however  Euros 40/50 will by a good seat at these events and an excellent one at others.  Novilladas and corridas de rejoneo are somewhat less expensive and festivals cheaper still, whilst comico taurino is always the lowest priced.

6. The Sorteo and Apartado

Overview

In many plazas, it is possible to watch the sorteo and apartado, which takes place about midday on the morning of the corrida.  In some plazas, notably Madrid and Pamplona, this is an event in itself, and one has to buy a special ticket.  In others, it is far less formalized and one can just wander in but there are also plazas, such as Sevilla, where members of the public are not admitted.


These processes are interesting to watch.  To get in, go to the back of the plaza where there is usually a door, cut unto larger gates that are the entrance to the corral area.  If it is not open, just knock.  Sometimes the staff are reluctant to let foreigners in, but just be a little persistent.  If you cannot get in that way, it is often possible to get access, or at least watch, from the seating area and this is generally open to visitors.  Both of these processes are usually conducted from a series of catwalks on top of the walls separating the corrals and, to the casual onlooker, these appear rather precarious places, especially with angry bulls waiting in the corrals below.

The Sorteo

Spanish for drawing of lots, this is the process by which it is decided which two bulls each matador will fight that afternoon.  By tradition, the matadors themselves do not attend and the responsibility is left to the most trusted and knowledgeable member of their respective cuadrillas.

The bulls are assessed by their size, appearance, horns and the way they behave, until all agree on suitable pairings.  For example, a very large bull might be paired with the smallest, or a bull that shows aggression in the corrals might be paired with a timid one.  By its very nature, this is a subjective process based on experience and superstition.  

Once everyone has agreed on the pairings, the numbers of the bulls, those branded into the flanks, are written on three pieces of paper and put into a hat.  Then the representative of each torero picks out one piece of paper and that determines which matador fights which bulls and he can then choose the order in which the two bulls are fought.  There are many myths about the order the bulls are fought.  The truth is that they are all dangerous, regardless of the order they enter the arena.

The Apartado

This is the process by which the bulls are separated from each other and put into small, individual pens (chiqueros) to wait their turn to enter the ring later that afternoon.  This is a complicated procedure as the bulls have to be maneuvered individually  often through several different corrals, to the chiqueros  .  The gates of the corrals are controlled by an elaborate system of ropes  and steers, with bells around their necks, are used to separate the bulls and move them through the corrals.  The bulls will be familiar with these animals as they are used also on the ganaderías.  Sometimes, the steers also have a job to do in the corrida itself.

7. Before the Bullfight

The Toreros Arrival

If you wait outside the gate to the corrals about half an hour before the bullfight begins, and many people do, you will be able to see the arrival of the matadors and their cuadrillas.  The picadors arrive first as they prefer to have time to get used to the horses they will ride that afternoon.  These horses are supplied either by the plaza or outside contractors, and do not go from plaza to plaza with the cuadrilla.  The matadors and their banderilleros come next and although their dress, the traje de luces, is similar, it is not difficult to recognize the matadors as they have a different presence about them.  Also, only the matadors (and the picadors) are allowed to wear gold braid colored traje de luces, and they will be surrounded by people requesting their autographs and wishing them luck (suerte).  Incidentally, from close up, the trajes de luces do not seem as glamorous as they appear from a distance.

Finding your seat

By now it is time to go to your seat.  You will find the correct entrance by matching the tendido number on the ticket with the tendido numbers on the entrances all around the plaza.  The different parts of the plaza, sombra, sol y sombra and sol are also clearly marked in most instances.  The attendant will tear off part of the ticket and you will pass through into a corridor that runs around the plaza, under the seats.  In this area, there will usually be small bars, public toilets and people renting out cushions (almohadillas), and this is a wise investment.  Now look for another entrance that corresponds to your ticket and an attendant will show you to your seat.  A tip is customary but not obligatory.

The scene before you

The arena is generally a circular sand covered area with two white washed (red in Sevilla) circles that effectively separate the arena into three concentric areas.  The one closest to the spectators is known as las tablas, the center one is el tercio, and the larger, central, one is Las Medias.  A wooden barrier (barrera) runs all around the outer end of the arena and leaves a narrow passage (callejon) between itself and the seating areas.  The barrera has four or five small breaks in it, and each has a mini barrera (burladero) immediately in front of, and overlapping, it.  The burladeros enable the toreros, and not the bulls, to get in and out of the arena.  There is a running board (estribo), about eighteen inches above the ground, on both sides of the barrera, which enables the toreros to make emergency exits and quick reappearances to and from the arena.  You will also see several gates in the barrera, which are usually just in front of much larger gates leading to tunnels under the seats.  Their purposes will become clear later.  One such gate is in front of the toril, the entrance to the chiqueros.  There are also burladeros in the callaejon under the seating areas, for the protection of officials and police, etc.

8. The Bullfight

The Presidente

At the appointed hour, the presidente, usually a public official, and his advisers enter the presidente’s box.  There are legal regulations, Reglamento de Espectaculos Taurinos, that cover every aspect of the corrida, and the presidente is the official with responsibility for enforcing them.  He controls the flow of events by signals with handkerchiefs.  If the presidente does not arrive on time, the crowd will begin to get restless and start to whistle to signal their disapproval.

The Paseillo

After the presidente’s first signal, the gates in the barrera in front of one of the tunnels under the seats open and the parade of the toreros (paseillo) begins.  Leading, in most plaza de toros, are two   sometimes one, horsemen – sometimes in the costume of medieval constables, with large, plumed hats.  These are mounted officials (alguacilillos) who are the presidente’s representatives in the arena, and act as the link between the presidente and all other participants.  They are followed, to the edge of the outer circle, by three columns headed by the matadors.

The most senior matador is on the left (the right as seen from the Presidente’s box), the next senior on the right and the most junior in the center.  If you see that a matador is holding his hat (montera) in his right had   it signifies that he has not appeared in this particular plaza de toros before.  Now is the best time to identify the matadors as it is the only time they will all be together, formally.  The names can be taken from the cartel and matched against their place in the paseillo.  Simply remember the color of their trajes de luces, and remember only matadors can wear gold, although they are not obliged to, (hopefully they will all be different)  and you will know who is who throughout the corrida.  This is important because in most plazas, there is no formal method of identification.

Immediately behind the matadors come the members of their cuadrilla.  The matadors and banderilleros followed by two mounted picadors.  The matadors and banderilleros will have their personal, ceremonial, capes (capotes) wrapped around their left shoulder.

Now the alguacilillos will gallop across the ring to beneath the presidente’s box, salute the presidente with their hats, and return to the head of the paseillo.  The matadors then cross themselves, bow to each other, and the paseillo begins to cross the plaza towards the presidente’s box, with the mules that drag the dead bull out of the arena bringing up the rear.  As the matadors arrive, they bow and salute the presidente with their monteras, a procedure that is repeated by their cuadrillas and everyone else involved in the event.  The matadors and banderilleros then hand their ceremonial capotes to other helpers, who look after the capotes, muletas and swords behind the berrera, and are handed fighting capotes in exchange.

These capotes are very large, rather stiff and usually colored magenta on the front side and yellow on the back.  While the toreros practice passes to get their rhythm going and to calm their nerves, the ceremonial capotes are displayed on the wall around the plaza and held in place by spectators in the barrera seats, an honor often given to friends of the toreros.

By now, the picadors will have ridden their horses back to the rear of the plaza, under the seating area.  Only one other ceremony remains before the first bull can be released into the arena, and this concerns the keys to the gate of the toril, from which the bulls are released into the ring.  Its form can vary, but it is most dramatic when the presidente throws the keys down to an alguacil who attempts to catch them in his hat, and then takes them across the ring to the person in charge of the toriles.  In other instances, the keys are already with this person and a symbolic cardboard key is taken across.

The First Bull

The actual fight (lidia) takes approximately 20 minutes and is divided into three parts (tercios).  Each lidia is conducted within a set framework of regulations, but because of the very nature of the event, man against wild animal, every one is different.  There are recognized methods (schools) of fighting (toreo) and many formalized passes with each matador having his own particular style for both.  Some adopt the classical style and others play to the crowd with rather dramatic looking passes that appear far more dangerous than they actually are.  The latter category includes those matadors that drop to their knees frequently and these are categorized, generally, as tremendistas.  Although these matadors are very popular, such forms of toreo are considered vulgar in important plazas such as Sevilla and Madrid.  Consequently, matadors often use different styles to suit their audiences.  The management of each plaza sometimes attempts to contract matadors with contrasting styles and personalities that will appeal to their own audiences.  Indeed, sometimes, two matadors will develop a particular rivalry and will appear together frequently throughout the season.


Before the entrance of the first bull, the arena will have cleared and all the gates will be closed with one important exception, the one directly in front of the toril.  One side of this will be pulled back to form a barrier across the callejon.  If you look carefully, you might see some activity in the area immediately above the toril, but this depends on the physical structure of the plaza.  Standing above the chiquero, someone will push a pole through the open grid and stick a small, colored streamer (divisa)  into the bull’s back.  The colors are those of the ganadería and can be compared, in their meaning, to those of a racehorse owner and, interestingly, some prestigious ganaderías have different colored divisas for Madrid and all other plazas..


A board will be shown, either above the chiqueros or displayed in the ring, giving details of the bull, including its individual number, weight, the name of the ganadería and even the name of the bull and the year and month it was born.  The presidente will display a white handkerchief, you will hear haunting notes played by a bugler accompanied by a roll on the drums, and the toril gate will be pulled back across the callejon, thus forming a passage through which the bull will pass.  The chiquero door will be swung open and the next few moments are some of the most dramatic of what is always a dramatic afternoon.  The anticipation of the audience is high as no one can predict what the bull will be like, or how it will enter the ring.  Often, you will see one of the gatemen lean over and bang the date to get the bull’s attention and when he suddenly jumps back the bull is sure to be coming down the dark passageway into the arena.


Sometimes the bull will gallop out   whilst on other occasions it will stroll out, cautiously, as though it were weighing up the situation.  Mostly, the bulls will be black, but not always.  If the bull is particularly attractive (precioso), or well presented, it will draw a response from the audience.


The First Tercio:  The Picadors

Banderilleros of the matador’s cuadrilla will have been stationed behind burladeros on either side of the ring, and now they will come through to try to attract the bull’s attention.  When the bull charges at one of them, the man will run back and slip behind the burladero, usually followed closely by the bull that will either run off in search of someone else, pull up short, or crash into the burladero or barrera.  On very rare occasions, the burladero, or berrera, will shatter under the impact and there is always a carpenter on hand for such circumstances.  On other occasions, it is possible that a bulls’ horn will shatter, or even break off.


Another banderillero will then come out from the other side, the bull will charge over and the same process will be repeated.  The purpose of this is to enable the matador to study the bull’s reaction and habits; some bulls have a tendency to hook one way or another and it could also become clear if he has any sight defects.  This is extremely important, because the intent of the whole lidia is to ‘teach’ the bull that it should follow first the capote and then the muleta.  As will become clear, that is essential when the time comes to kill the bull.  A bull with a sight defect is nearly as dangerous as one that has been fought before, a situation that is illegal and tightly controlled by the ganadería.  Sometimes during this period, a bull may jump the barrera and end up in the callejon, which causes   immediate panic.  The people there get over into the ring fast, the bull then runs around the callejon and one of the staff must pull back a gate forcing the bull back into the arena.  This is hugely enjoyed by the crowd and whenever the bull approaches the barrera, they often stand and shout to encourage the bull to jump.  But do not be worried, it is almost unknown for a bull to get up into the tendidos.


If the bull has entered the ring with any obvious physical defects (and remember, they are passed fit by a veterinarian beforehand) such as lameness, there will be an immediate protest from the crowd to the presidente.  He has the authority to change the damaged bull for the substitute (sobrero, literally extra or spare).  If he agrees, a green handkerchief will signal what is always an interesting, and sometimes lighthearted, exercise.  The ring will clear, the gates of the barrera and toril will be opened and, after a moment or so, a group of steers with bells around their necks will enter the ring, followed closely behind by herdsman with a whip.   The idea is simple, mix the bull in amongst them and hopefully the heard instinct will take over and it will follow them back into the corrals.  But it very rarely happens so simply.  Quite often, the bull’s natural intelligence, cunning and aggression show through clearly.  Sometimes it will ignore the steers and keep a wary eye on the herdsman waiting for him to get too close, at other times, it will actually attack one of the steers, and on the rare occasion a steer will even retaliate.  Eventually, the bull will be returned to the corrals and the sobrero released into the ring in its place.


After the banderilleros have repeated the process a couple of times, and remember they are not allowed to make formal passes, the matador will step into the ring from the burladero closest to the presidente’s box.  This is known as the burladero de matadors and throughout the corrida, it is where the matadors make their ‘formal’ entrances and exits.  At this time, the bull is usually still very mobile, and fast, and not used to following the capote.


The matador will attract the bull’s attention and make a pass.  Sometimes the bull will carry on around the ring until a banderillero steps out with his capote and attempts to ‘bring’ the bull back towards the matador.

After a few passes, the bull will start to return to the capote and the matador will try some elegant passes called veronicas  and the slower and more elegant the veronicas, the more the applause and the louder the ‘ole’s’.  To finish off, and to be able to move away from the bull safely, the matador will end with a half veronica (media-veronica), and this time, the capote will be pulled behind the matador’s back, forcing the bull to turn sharply and thus bringing it to a standstill.  These sorts of passes are called remates, which literally means finishing.


During this part of the lidia the matador might go down on his knees (rodillas) hold the capote out in front of himself and cite the bull to charge.  As it bears down on him, he will wait until the last possible moment and then swing the capote across, and over, his shoulder and hopefully, the bull will follow, narrowly missing the matador’s head in the process.  Without exception, this gets a favorable response from the crowd and is possible because the bull’s speed will take it well past the matador.  Far and away, the most dramatic example of this kind of pass is when the matador walks slowly across the plaza before the bull has been released, and gets down on his knees thirty to forty feet in front of the toril gate.  The gate is swung open and the bull, seeing the capote, charges straight at the matador.  This pass is spectacular, and if it goes wrong, so is the goring (cornada).  This pass is known as a Puerta de Goyola.


After a series of veronicas, or even during them, the presidente will display his handkerchief again and the bugle will signal the next stage of the 1st torcio, the picadors.  The banderilleros come out and draw the bull towards one of the closest burladeros, but not the burladero de matadors, and keep it there by alternately throwing out part of their capotes from either end of the burladero.  For the moment, the bull can take a short break.  This is to allow the gates in the barrera, and those bigger ones behind them in the callejon, to be opened so that the picadors can enter the arena safely.  And they are accompanied by men in red shirts and holding sticks, whose job it is to attend the horses.  They will often stay behind the horses when the bull charges to prod and poke with the intent of stopping it moving away, they have to be very agile and are often seen scampering over the barrera when the bull turns its attention on them.  Their name monosabios ‘wise monkeys’ comes from the fact that their traditional uniform of red shirt and blue trousers was the same as that   of a group of performing monkeys in a popular circus during the 19th century.

There are two picadors in each cuadrilla and normally only one is used, for each bull, so they alternate.  Now the two other matadors will be seen making their way to the picador who is to be in action.  They will place themselves to the left with the most senior closest to the picador.  They alternate positions, according to seniority, for the rest of the bulls.  The picador’s horse is very well covered with padding (the peto) .  Note how the horse has a blindfold covering its right eye (ojo).  The large metal stirrup on the right side protects the foot of the picador, and the small gap in the peto on the left side enables the picador to control the horse with his spur.  The picador always faces the bull with its right side, hence the blindfold being on the right and the gap in the peto on the left.

 


When everybody is in place, the matador will cross the ring and take control of the bull from the banderilleros, who then move over close to the active picador.  It is the matador’s job, now, to take the bull to the picador.  There are many different methods and styles and the applause will be the greater the more elegantly it is done.


A pass that is used often during this part of the lidia is the chicuelina, where the matador wraps the capote around himself as the bull passes and then turns to face the bull again.  These passes are often completed in series and performed in a stationary position or even when walking, with the latter being especially elegant.

    And now the reason for the two circles around the ring becomes clear.  The picador must not cross the one closest to the barrera before the bull has charged and the matador must not bring the bull over the one closest to the center of the ring.  This is to give the bull at least a minimum distance in which to charge.  If the picador crosses that line, there is likely to be an immediate, and loud, protest from the crowd.


This is not the most popular part of the lidia, as it is only too easy for the picador to do his job incorrectly and abuse the bull.  This is often done deliberately, with the covert authority of the matador, especially when the bull is considered particularly dangerous or awkward.  When that happens the picador is fiercely abused by the audience both verbally and sometimes even physically with anything that comes to hand, such as paper cups and sometimes even cushions, as he leaves the arena.  On the other hand, if he does his job properly, which happens less often, he will be well applauded.  When the bull charges, the picador will be waiting with the vara extended, and the ideal is to plant it in the bull just behind the large fleshy mound (morillo) on its neck.  If executed properly, this should bring the bull to a halt before it reaches the horses, but it rarely happens that way.


In the days when the horse was unprotected, if the bull reached the horse it would cause great damage and often bring both the horse and picador to the ground.  This was often fatal for the horse and difficult for the picador, as the armor they have to wear makes them relatively immobile.  Today, with the horses heavily padded, the picador can allow the bull to reach the horse with relative safety.  This is not to say that the bull cannot overturn the horse and the picador, which does happen.  However, the odds are against it.  When it does happen, it causes great excitement in the crowd and immediate action in the arena to take the bull away from the horse and picador, a maneuver known as a quite.  Too often these days, the picador unfairly allows the bull to attack the peto, harmlessly for man and horse, while he continues to damage the bull.  This action is immensely unpopular because it weakens the bull too much and will curtail its ability to perform well during the later stages of the lidia.  A fine line needs to be drawn here.  Without being weakened by loss of blood, the morillo would stay strong and, therefore, the bull’s head would remain high, which would make it near impossible for the matador to get over the horns to kill it.  But to weaken it too much can ruin its ability to protect itself properly.

This tercio ends in one of two ways.  Either the action continues until the presidente signals for the change of tercio – often after the bull has been taken to the horse three times, or the matador, deciding that the bull has had enough, attracts the attention of the presidente, takes off his montera and indicates, with a rolling motion of his right hand, that he wants the tercio changed.  It is not always in the matador’s interest to punish the bull too much.  He might want the bull still to be reasonably and challengingly strong.  However, the final decision rests with the presidente.


When the presidente has signaled, the bugle will blow again and the banderilleros will keep the bull occupied so that the picadors can move around the arena, anti-clockwise, to their exit.


The Second Tercio:  The Banderillas

Banderillas are wooden sticks   about thirty inches long, covered in brightly colored paper with a sharp, metal, pointed, barbed end. They are placed in pairs behind the morillo of the bull.  Although this looks very dramatic in practice, technically, it is just a matter of angles.  The point to understand is that a bull, unlike a horse, cannot turn within its own length.


There are many variations, but basically, the torero will start running towards the bull, on a curved trajectory, encouraging the bull to run at him.  At a certain point, the torero turns sharply towards the bull and then immediately returns to his original course, the bull will swerve towards the torero as he alters course, and in the next second, the torero with his arms held high over the bull’s horns will bring the banderillas to bear down into the bull’s back and then spin away.  There are debates about the value and meaning of this particular act and some consider it superfluous to the overall lidia.  Its interest as a spectacle is variable according to who is actually placing the banderillas.  Some matadors will never place banderillas and some specialize in the art.  When the matador does not place them, he leaves the responsibility with the banderilleros.  Often, with the banderilleros placing the ‘sticks’, the tercio is not particularly attractive.  Every now and again, a pair will be placed well, and with style, and the matador will signal to the banderillero to take a round of applause from the crowd.


Unfortunately, on other occasions, they do not even attempt to do it properly and just push the banderilleras at the bull as they pass by.  As in the previous tercio, the two other matadors have a formal role when the other matador’s peons are placing the banderillas.  They place themselves at strategic points to be able to react quickly if the banderillero gets himself into trouble.


 No such thing will happen if the matador is placing the banderilleras.  For him, it will be a matter of pride and professionalism to complete the act with as much style, and flair, as possible.  In many instances, the cartel will consist of three matadors who are renowned for their skill at this part of the lidia.  In these circumstances, the act takes on a different and more spectacular character.  The matador will take three pairs of banderilleras and signal for the other two matadors to share the tercio, and he should also courteously invite them to go first, in order of seniority.


Having taken a pair of banderilleras, the matador will clear the ring of other toreros and proceed to a position from where he can cite the bull.  This will vary according to how he intends to place the banderilleras.  Unlike his banderilleros     the matador specializes in certain styles.  Whatever the style, and one of them, used rarely, is for the matador to cite the bull while sitting in a chair, technically the principle is the same as that described above.  The band is now likely to start playing, and with arms high above his head and body twisting, the matador will attract the bull’s attention and begin his run.  There is always a great deal of showmanship.  If he realizes that the angle is not going to be right, he will run, dramatically, right past the bull and start again.


When the presidente signals, the bugle will sound, and the tercio will come to an end.  The banderilleros will take the bull to one of the burladeros, to either side of the burladero de matadors, and keep it there until the matador is ready to start the ultimate act of the lidia.


The Third Tercio:  The Faena

The Faena, literally task or job, is the final tercio and rather different from those that preceded it.  It is the sole responsibility of the matador and the equipment used is also different.  Instead of the capote, the matador’s only protection is the muleta, which is considerably smaller and red in color.


The matador also carries a sword (estoque) and, by tradition, it must always be in the right hand regardless of how it is used.  As steel swords are very heavy, most matadors use a replica of wood or aluminium until the time comes to kill the bull, when it is exchanged for the real thing.  During the faena, the sword is used to spread the muleta out farther, thus giving the matador a little more defense and control.


When the matador is ready to begin, he will walk, with muleta and sword in his left hand and montera in the right, to a position in front of the presidente’s box.  The presidente will rise, they will bow to each other, and the matador will request permission to kill the bull.  The matador may then dedicate the bull, and this small ceremony is called the brindis.  The dedication is either to the presidente, to someone in the crowd or to the crowd itself.  In the first two cases, there will be a short speech then the matador turns to face the ring and throws the montera back over his head to the recipient of the dedication.  If that person is seated high up in the seats it is then passed by others until it reaches its destination.  If the brindis is to the crowd itself, the ceremony is rather different.  The matador walks out towards the centre of the plaza, stops, raises the montera and, always to the right, makes a sweeping movement with the montera.  This is greeted by hearty applause from the crowd and what happens next depends upon how superstitious the matador is.  The montera must end up on the sand and tradition dictates that it is a source of bad luck if it is upside down.  Some matadors just toss the montera over their shoulder.  If it lands the right way up, the crowd may cheer a little, but if it does not, a note of alarm is sounded.  The matador may ignore it or, as happens more often, turn around and place the montera the right way up.  Others do not leave things to chance and simply turn around and place it on the sand with the crown uppermost.  The faena is the only part of the lidia that the matador performs, officially, without his montera.  The banderilleros are required to wear theirs whenever they or their matador is in the ring.


Because of its nature, the faena cannot be explained in sequence, as that is totally at the discretion of the matador.  However, the following will give you a basic understanding of this tercio.


The faena is now ready to begin and the matador will walk slowly back towards the barrera and begin to approach, carefully, the burladero where the bull has been kept busy by the banderilleros.  The muleta will probably be in his right hand and extended by the sword, which will give the matador more room to work with initially.

 

The first passes often aim to capture the bull’s attention with the muleta and take it from Las Tablas (outer part) to Las Medias (central part) of the arena.  After a few passes, the matador will attempt to draw the bull away from the barrera, towards the center of the arena.


The faena is both a very technical part of the lidia and can also be very artistic.  In it, there are many different passes that themselves have variations.  The first, and most important, thing to realize is that it is considered to be true toreo only when the matador controls the charges of the bull, and not when the bull dictates what happens.


Sometimes a matador will cite the bull from a distance, standing directly in the line of the charge and the   muleta can be used to deflect the bull from its natural course and past the torero.  On the other occasions, the matador will be seen standing to the side, and slightly behind the bull’s head, with his arm and the muleta extended in front of the horns.  This sort of pass does not give the bull any room to charge, and in any event, the horns are past the point where they are of much danger to the matador.  Neither of these examples would meet the criteria for toreo.  However, if the matador places himself a few feet in front of the bull, but at a ninety-degree angle to the natural line of charge, and with the muleta in the hand farthest away from that line, then he is in genuine danger.  This is simply because he is placing himself between the natural line of charge and where he wants the bull to go.  To extricate himself from this position safely, it is clear that the matador must control, and change, the natural path of the bull, and this is considered classic toreo.


You will see many other examples of how a bull is passed during the faena, but this should at least give you enough information to start with.  One other point worth mentioning is that if you look carefully when the matador is citing the bull for a close pass, you will see that often the arm is extended as far as possible and the muleta held at an angle, and a little ahead of the far horn.  This is a trick.  By keeping the arm straight and then straightening the wrist, the muleta itself straightens and, as a consequence, the bull is taken further away from the matador’s body.


It is important to reiterate what the passes are intended to do, and that is to get the bull to follow the muleta, not the man, at all times.  This is critical when the time comes for the matador to kill the bull.  Even the slightest deviation of its right horn puts the torero in great danger.  Passes can be made with the muleta in either hand, though remember, if it is a right-handed pass the sword will be in that hand also.  When the muleta is held in the left hand and the sword is used to extend the area of cloth, these are known as assisted passes (pases ayudados), and they can also be high or low.  It would be impractical to describe all the many different passes, but there are some that will almost always been seen in any faena and they are worth a mention.  Of these, perhaps the most important is the left-handed ‘natural.’  This low pass takes the bull past the body, from one side to the other, in a slow sweeping motion.   These passes, done in a series, bring the bull closer and closer to the body and often around it as well, and they are very elegant to watch.  They are also very dangerous as, without being able to extend the muleta, the bull comes closer to the body.  


When the matador wants to end a series of passes, he will make a ‘remate’ pass that will, naturally, allow him to move away safely (remember the media-veronica in the first tercio).  Whenever the matador moves away from the bull, note that the muleta is generally closed up and held away from its vision:  it is only shown to the bull when necessary.


During the faena, a frequently used pass is the pase de pecho, the chest pass.  Standing sideways, the matador sends the bull    cited from behind him, under his armpit and high past his chest, the motion taking it past his body, allowing the torero to move away safely.   Less elegantly, the matador will sometimes ‘chop’ the bull by standing in front of it and placing the muleta close to one side of its head.  As the bull reacts, the muleta is withdrawn sharply and the process is repeated on the other side.  Done continuously, this causes the bull to twist and turn sharply and can be very tiring for it.  The faena is not completed in one continuous flow.  There are groups of passes after which the matador moves away and changes the angle of approach.  If he has done well, it is a signal for the crowd’s applause.


It might appear that the bull, having been considerably slowed down is less dangerous, but this is deceiving.  In reality, it is more dangerous, because it is learning all the time, and instead of charging wildly at anything, is picking and choosing when it wants to attack.  The bull is extremely dangerous when it develops a querencia, literally homing instinct.  In these instances the bull will back into an area it considers its own and where it feels safe, quite often, in front of the toril where it entered the arena.  It is absolutely imperative for the matador to draw the bull away from that area and it is not always easy to do.  If you look at the burladeros closest to where the action is, you will see the matador’s banderilleros will be stationed in them, out of sight of the bull.  That is also crucial as any distraction could cause the bull to move its concentration from the muleta.


If the matador gets into difficulties, or is tossed, the banderillos are on hand.  Their speedy intervention could be the difference between life and death for the matador.  If you are close enough, it is possible to hear them sending torrents of advice to the matador.  As the matador gains control, he will sometimes finish a series of passes with the bull ‘fixed’ in a particular position.  One of these passes is the manoletina, made famous by Manolete, and this looks rather dramatic.  The matador will take the muleta in his right hand and his left will go behind his back and take hold of the end of the muleta.  This immediately lessens the area of cloth visible to the bull; and the matador walks towards the bull lifting it over the horns and then swivels around and repeats the process, which is usually performed to great applause.  In fact, this is not a “real” pass as the matador passes the bull, rather than vica-versa, but it does tire the animal very quickly.   Confident that the bull will not move, it is a time when some matadors try dramatic gestures.  These include touching the bull’s head and horns, leaning on the head with his elbow and sometimes even kissing the horns.  Others drop to their knees in front of the bull and make a show of throwing the muleta and sword away.  Others turn their backs on the bull.  These actions are called desplantes.


When he is ready to kill the bull, the matador will finish a series of passes and then walk to the barrera to exchange the replica sword for the real thing.  There will then be one or two more passes to regain the bull’s concentration, the matador will signal to the band to stop playing, the crowd will become silent and the bull will be cited.  Sometimes you will see the matador reposition the bull a little, and like everything else, there is a reason for this.  To enable the placing of the sword in the proper spot the bull’s shoulder blades must be open, and its feet must be close together to achieve this.


It is time for the ‘moment of truth’.  This is the most dangerous act of the whole corrida as the matador has to go in over the bull’s right horn to kill the bull properly, thus exposing him self more than at any other time.  Although the sword is held in the right hand These passes are often completed in series and performed in a stationary position or even when walking, with the latter being especially elegant.   it is the left hand that is of more importance to the matador as it takes the bull away from his body.  The matador will cite the bull, from about six feet or so, sideways with his left hand extending the muleta and the sword at shoulder height being lined up by his eyes.  He will then raise and lower the muleta to ensure the bull is still following the lure.   If he is satisfied, then he throws himself forward, with his left hand pushed across the bull’s head, thrusts the sword into the bull just behind the morillo and spins off to the left.


This all happens at such speed that it becomes a blur, and it takes a second or two to see the results.  If it is done correctly the sword will be in up to the hilt, and, immediately, the banderilleros will come in and make the bull twist and turn.  There is often a bit of kidology here, the matador, and everyone else, would like to see the bull die immediately, but this rarely happens.  If the sword has been placed well, the bull will die shortly and the matador would publicly, prefer it if the banderilleros stayed out of it.  However, by twisting and turning the bull, it accelerates the death as the sword movement causes more internal damage.  So you may well hear the matador shouting at the banderilleros to stay away, even though he wants a swift death.


A well-placed sword can be effective when it is only half way in, but there is a more unpleasant scene if the sword is a little to one side or the other.  If it pierces the lungs, the bull will soon have blood pouring from its mouth, and although it will die quickly, it is not a pretty sight.  If the sword has only gone in a little, the banderilleros will come out and twist and turn the bull so that the sword works itself free, and the matador will start again.  A successful thrust is called an estocada and one that just goes in, or out, is a pinchazo.


There is more than an element of luck involved in all of this.  Sometimes the matador will just hit bone.  Often, the bull will not die straight away, nor will it have enough energy to continue standing, and will simply lie down.  In this instance, you will notice that one of the bandilleros will be carrying a short dagger with a flat, oval tip.  A closer look will reveal that he has a plastic covering on his right arm.  The man is known as a puntillero, and the dagger is a puntilla   .  He brings it down between the base of the skull and the top of the neck of the bull, severing the spinal cord and killing it instantly.


If the matador is still not successful after a few tries with the sword, he will call for the descabello.  This is similar to a sword, but with a bar across it, four or five inches from   a rather wider, flatter tip.  It is designed to kill in the same manner as the puntilla, as the bull, by now, is too weak to charge properly.


The matador has to kill the bull within a time limit and he gets a series of warnings as the limit gets closer.  A bugler sounds the warning (aviso) after ten, twelve and fifteen minutes.  If the bull has not been killed by the third aviso, this represents the ultimate disgrace for a matador as the bull is returned to the corrals.  Do not expect to see this happen.  One way or another, the matador will usually kill the bull before the third aviso, but it will not be attractive to watch.


After the Death

When the bull is dead, the matador retrieves his montera.  He then walks across to ‘salute’ the presidente and returns to the burladero de matadors.  If he has done well, the crowd will be on its feet, waiving white handkerchiefs towards the presidente, indicating that an award should be given.  These rewards, the ears (orejas) and tail (rabo) are called trophies (trofeos) and, as usual, there are rules regarding their distribution.  


The first ear is rewarded by the presidente, on the acclaim of the audience, by the usual signal of a white handkerchief.  It may be that the performance was so good that the audience is not satisfied with just one trophy and the clamor will continue.  However, the second ear and tail are rewarded solely at the discretion of the presidente and signaled by a handkerchief for each.  The rule of thumb for trophies is that the giving of them is in inverse order to the size of the plaza.  Indeed, some of the larger ones will never award a tail at all.  The trophies will be cut by the puntillero and handed over to the alguacil, who will wait by the circles opposite the burladero de matadors.


The mules will then de brought in and will drag the bull to the butchers’ at the back of the arena.  If the bull is deemed to have performed particularly valiantly, the presindente signals with a blue handkerchief and the bull is given the honor of a trip around the arena before its exit.


Once the bull has left the arena, the matador, with a capote and montera in his left hand, will walk out to receive his trophy or trophies, from the alguacil.  After that, the matador - closely followed by his banderilleros - starts off on a clockwise tour of the ring (vuelta), saluting each tendido on the way around.  This is a signal for the audience to throw all kinds of things into the ring, leather bottles (botas), cigars, flowers, women’s purses (I have seen a matador put an ear in one of these) and even live rabbits and chickens.


When the matador has completed the vuelta, there will be time to walk out towards the center for a final salute to the crowd.  Even if a trophy has not been awarded, a matador might very well take a vuelta, at the behest of the audience, especially if they disagree with the presidente.  At the completion of the corrida those matadors that have cut two ears, or more,  are often carried out of the arena through the main gate on the shoulders of their admirers.  The time has now come for the entrance of the second bull, and it will all be repeated, but in such a manner and with so many variations that no two lidias are ever alike.


9. Glossary of Spanish Words

These do not include the passes, which are explained in more detail in the text.

Abono – A season ticket; this can be for an entire temporada or just for a feria.

Aficianados – Those who follow the bullfight.

Alguacil – The mounted official, in medieval costume, that is responsible for enforcing the presidente’s orders in the arena.

Alguacilillos – The plural for Alguacil.

Almohadillas – The cushions that are almost always available for hire.

Alternativa – The ceremony when a novillero becomes a full matador.

Apartado – The process of separating the bulls and moving them from the corrals to the individual chiqueros.

Avisos – The warnings given the matadors/novilleros/rejoneadors that advise them they have only a limited amount of time left to kill the bull.

Banderillas – The wooden sticks, decorated with colored paper and with barbed ends, which are placed in the bulls flanks in the second tercio.

Banderilleros – The toreros that belong to a matador’s cuadrulla and are often also responsible for placing the banderillas.

Barrera – This can mean two things, the wooden barrier that separates the callejon from the main arena and also the name of the first row of seats.

Billetes – One of the two words for tickets, the other is entradas.

Brindis – The ceremony of dedicating the bull.

Burladores – These are the wooden barriers that overlap the gaps left in the barrera and thus allow the toreros, but not the bulls, in and out of the callejon.

Caballos – Spanish for horse.

Cabestros – The steers used on the ganderias, in the apardado process, and sometimes during the bullfight.

Callejon – The passageway between the barrera and the seating area.

Capote – The large cape, often magenta on the front and yellow at the back, which is used by the matadors in tercios one and two and by the cuadrilla in all three tercios.

Carteles – The posters that advertise the bullfights.

Chiqueros – The individual pens where the bulls stay for the final few hours before the bullfight.

Cogida – Spanish for tossing.

Contrabarrera – In most plaza de toros, this is the second row of seats.

Cornada – Spanish for a goring.

Corrida – A bullfight where the matador fights, and kills, mature bulls (toros).

Cuadrilla – The collective name for the toreros, banderilleros and picadors, that are paid by and assist each matador.

Descabello – A sword with a special flat tipped bland that is used to sever the spinal cord when it is no longer possible, due to the bull’s condition, to use the regular sword.

Desplantes – The name given when a matador stands, or sits, dramatically in front of the bull.  This usually only happens towards the end of the third tercio.

Divisa – The small, colored, streamer that is put on the bull’s morillo just before it enters the ring.  The colors are those of the ganadería and, interestingly, there can be different colored divisas, for the same ganderia, for Madrid and all other plazas.

El Tercio – The middle concentric area formed by the two chalk circles drawn on the arena.

Entradas – One of the two words for tickets, the other is billetes.

Escalafon – Literally ‘ladder’, but in this context refers to the name given to ‘league tables’ for the matadors and novilleros published in the specialists magazines.

Espada – Spanish for sword, but, colloquially, it means matador.

Estoque – The name of the sword that is used to kill the bull.

Estribo - The running board, about eighteen inches above the ground, that runs around the barrera, both inside and out, that assists the toreros to jump over the barrera in emergencies.

Faena – The third and final tercio.

Feria – Every Spanish town has a feria (fair) and these very greatly in size and importance, and it is during a feria that there will, more often than not, be bullfights.

Filas – The rows of seats immediately behind the barrera and contrabarrera.  The number of these depends on the size of the plaza

Ganadería – The ranch on which the bulls are bred and raised.

Ganadero/Ganadera – The owner of the ganadería.

Garrocha – The name for the long wooden pole used by the picadors.

Gradas – The highest, and cheapest, seats in a plaza de torros.

Las Tablas – The outer, closest to the spectators, concentric area formed by the two chalk circles drawn on the arena.


Lidia – Liberally the ‘fight’ and often used in the context of a bullfight.

Los Medios – The central concentric area formed by the two chalk circles drawn on the arena.

Mano-a-mano – Literally ‘hand-to-hand’.  In this context it refers to a corrida/novillada with just two matadors/novilleros participating.

Monosobios – The ‘Ring Monkies” that assist the picadors with their horses during the first tercio.

Matador – Literally ‘killer’, and the only torero allowed to kill bulls in a Corrida de Toros.

Montera – This is the strangley shaped hat worn by toreros.  Note:  members of the cuadrilla must wear theirs at all times, but the matador discards his for the third tercio – the faena.

Morrillo – This is the large, muscular, lump behind the bull’s neck.  It is essentially that this is weakened, otherwise, the bull’s head would stay too high for safety when it came time for the ‘moment of truth.’

Muleta – The red cloth that the matador holds as a lure during the faena.  Note:  These can very somewhat in size and are surprisingly heavy.

Mulos – The mules that drag away the bull’s body to the butcher’s yard.

No Hay Billetes – A sign with these words at the taquilla means that all tickets have been sold.

Novillada – A bull fight where novilleros fight and kill novillos.

Novilleros – Toreros that have not graduated to full matador status.  These fight, and kill, novillos in novilladas.

Novillos – Immature bulls, less than four years old, that are used in novilladas and festivals.

Orejas – Ears.  One or both of these may be awarded as trofeos to the matador for a fine performance.

Padre – Father.  In this context, it is the name given the senior matador during the alternative ceremony.

Palcos – Boxes.  These are usually fairly high up and contain six, eight or even more seats.

Paseillo – The opening ceremony of each bull fight when the matadors, their cuadrillas and everyone else who takes part, even the ‘ring monkies’ parade across the arena to acknowledge the presidente.

Pasodobles – The name of the tunes played by the band during a bullfight.

Peto – The protective covering over the picadors horses.

Picador – These men sit heavily padded horses and lance the bull with a puya.

Pinchazo – The term used when the sword only just goes into the bull and then comes straight out.

Pitones – Horns.

Plaza de toros – The place where most bullfights are held.

Precioso – Lovely or beautifully, and a term applied to a particularly attractive bull.

Presidenté – The person, most often a man, who is responsible for enforcing the Reglamentos de Espectaculos Taurinos.  He is usually a public official, and is often advised by an ex-matador on technical matters.

Puntilla – The name of the dagger used by a puntillero to ensure that the bull is dead.

Puntillero – The term applied to the member of the cuadrilla who, using the puntilla, ensures that the bull is finally dead.

Puya – The short pointed metal arrow at the end of the garrocha used by the picadors.

Querencia – The term used to describe the area that bulls often consider their ‘own’ territory.  The most common example is by the entrance to the torils.

Rabo – Tail.  This is the ultimate award (trofeo) for an exceptional performance by the matador.

Reglamentos de Espectaculos Taurinos – The laws that govern every aspect of bullfighting, in all its forms.

Remate – A word used to describe passes that bring the bull to a standstill and thus allowing the matadors/novilleros to walk away safely.

Rodillas – Knees.  It is also used to describe flamboyant passes.

Semental – Stud.  In this context, is the name of the seed bull used for breeding purposes.

Sobresaliente – Understudy.  In this context refers to the extra matador who is hired, usually only for a mano-a-mano or unico espada.  He will only participate if the original matadors get injured and are unfit to continue.

Sobrero – Substitute.  In this context, it refers to the spare bull, or bulls, that are kept in reserve in case they are requested if the original ones are defective when they enter the arena.

Sol – Sun.  In this context, it refers to those parts of the plaza that are always in the sun.  Thus there will be sol tendidos.

Sol y sombra – Sun and shade.  In this context, it refers to those parts of the plaza that start off in the sun, but them become shady.  Thus there will be sol y sombra tendidos.

Sombra – Shade.  In this context it refers to those parts of the plaza that will always be in the shade.  Thus, there will be sombra tendidos.

Sorteo – The process of selecting the bulls each matador/novillero will fight.

Suerte – Luck

Taquilla – Ticket office.

Tarde – Afternoon.  The time of the day when most bullfights are held.

Temporada – Season.  In this context, means the bullfighting season which last from March to October.  It is still possible to find bullfights out of season, but they are few and far between.

Tendidos – The different sections in a plaza de toros.

Tercios – Thirds.  In this context, each bullfight is divided into three tercios; the first tercio, the picadors; the second tercio, the banderillas; and the third tercio, the faena.

Testigo – Witness.  In this context, it is the name of the second most senior matador who acts as a witness during the alternativa ceremony.

Tienta – The process of testing the bravery of vacas.

Toreo – The art of bullfighting.

Toreros – The collective name for all bullfighters.

Toril – The name for the door to the chiqueros.

Toros – Bull.  In the context of bullfighting, this generally means a mature bull of four years or more.

Traje de campo – The traditional country wear used while at work on the ganaderías and worn in festivals.

Traje de luces – The suits of lights worn by toreros in corridas and novilladas.  These are always attractive but especially so when the bullfights are held under floodlights.

Tremendista – The name given to a matador that gives very flamboyant performances.  A perfect example was El Cordobes.

Trofeos – Trophies.  These are awarded to matadors for good performances.  They are, in order of ascendancy, one ear (oreja), two (orejas), and two ears (orejas) and a tail (rabo).  Note: In more prestigious plazas, rabos are almost never awarded as they are considered vulgar.

Unico Espada – A corrida/novillada where the matador/novillero fights every bull.

Vacas – Cow.

Vaqueros – Mounted herdsmen who work on the ganadería.

Vara – The collective name for the garrocha and puya when they are combined.

Vuelta – Usually the tour of the arena by the matador/novillero after a successful faena, and also, far more rarely, when a bull is granted that privilege after a particularly brave performance.

10. Principal Plazas and Dates of Ferias in Spain and France.

Overview

Perhaps the most common misconception about bullfighting is that there are bullfights every Sunday in all Spanish towns.  In fact, this is almost entirely erroneous.  Apart from Madrid and Barcelona, where there are bullfights almost every Sunday and sometimes in the week as well, most towns have bullfights only during their fiestas.  Some places even have two fiestas during the year and many towns also hold bullfights on some other, unspecified dates, during the temporada.  This, and the fact that there are so many small towns that have only one event, makes it impractical to list the dates of all the events through out Spain.  


As most tourists will most likely only be visiting the larger towns they are detailed below; by each month of the temporada, the most important towns, the category of the plaza and the capacity.


Another misconception is that bullfights are not held in France.  Although this is true for most of the country, there are two large regions where bullfighting is very popular and many events are held during the temporada.  One of these is alongside the Mediterranean between the Camargue and Perpignan and the other is on the Atlantic side in the Aquitaine region that runs roughly from Bayonne northeast towards Mont de Marsan, then east to Auch and south to Tarbes, and on to the border.  In fact, this is a very attractive area and some of the plaza de toros are sometimes most unusual, both in shape and design.


The only way to get more complete information on where, and when, events are held throughout Spain, and France, and much more information also – although in Spanish – is by consulting www.burladero.com or www.mundotoro.com.   When in Spain you can purchase one of the specialist magazines.  The most important of these are Aplausos and 6Toros6, and they are available throughout Spain and often outside the plaza de toros, before and after events.  Each of these has a section called ‘Avance de Carteles’ which lists, chronologically, the location, matadors or novilleros and the bulls for forthcoming events.  These also have ‘league tables’ (escalafons which means ladders) which detail how well the matadors and novilleros are doing and a similar section showing the status of the ganaderías.  These also have reports on the events, feature articles and many photographs – especially in 6Toros6.

Ferias in Spain and France

Month              Town                                        Plaza              Capacity

Early March *         Castellon                                   2nd                        13,000

Middle March         Valencia                                     1st                        16,851

Late April *            Sevilla                                       1st                         12,538

Early May               Jerez de la Frontera                2nd                         9,040

Mid May                 Nîmes (France)                         2nd                       16,000

Mid May                 Valladolid                                  2nd                       11,310

Mid May                 Vic-Fezensac (France)               2nd                        7,000

End May                 Cáceres                                      2nd                       7,000                 

End May                 Córdoba                                      1st                      16,900

Most May/early June

                              Madrid, Las Ventas                     1st                    23,500

Early June              Plascencia                                   2nd                     6,800

Mid June                Badajoz                                       2nd                     8,500

Mid June  *             Granada                                      2nd                   14,500

Late June               Algeciras                                     2nd                   12,500

Late June               Alicante                                       2nd                   15,235

Late June               Burgos                                         2nd                   12,200

Late June               Soria                                            2nd                     6,313

Late June               Zamora                                        2nd                   10,000

Early July               Teruel                                          2nd                     6,307

July 7 to July 14     Pamplona                                      1st                  19,500

Mid July               La Linea de la Concepción              3rd                     7,726

Mid July               Valencia                                         1st                    16,851

Late July              Ávila                                              2nd                    8,800           

Late July               Mont de Marsan (France)             2nd                    6,993

Late July                Pozoblanco                                  3rd                     5,000

Late July               Santander                                     2nd                   11,107

Late July               Teruel                                           2nd                    6,307

Late July               Tudela                                          3rd                     8,500

Early August          Huelva                                         2nd                   15,000

Early August          Vitoria                                         2nd                   10,000

Mid August            Antequera                                    3rd                     6,018

Mid August            Baeza                                           3rd                   10,000

Mid August            Bayonne (France)                         2nd                   10,400

Mid August            Beziers (France)                          2nd                   13,100  

Mid August            Calatayud                                     3rd                     7,000

Mid August            Ciudad Real                                  2nd                   11,000

Mid August            Dax (France)                                2nd                   10,400

Mid August            Gijón                                            2nd                     9,991

Mid August            Huesca                                         2nd                     7,500

Mid August            La Coruña                                    2nd                     9,176                                  

Mid August            Málaga                                         1st                   14,000

Mid August            San Sebastián                              1st                    10,300                              

Mid August            Toledo                                          2nd                     8,256

Late August           Alcala de Henares                         3rd                     7,117

Late August           Almería                                         2nd                     9,691

Late August           Bilbao                                           1st                    14,785

Late August          Calahorra                                      3rd                      9,500

Late August          Colmenar Viejo                             3rd                    10,000

Late August          Cuellar                                          3rd                      5,985

Late August          Cuenca                                          2nd                     8,423

Late August          Linares                                          3rd                    10,500

Late August         San Sebastián de los Reyes           3rd                      7,500

Early September Mérida                                           2nd                    11,000

Early September  Palencia                                          2nd                     9,000

Mid September    Albacete                                         2nd                   12,000

Mid September    Arles (France)                                2nd                   13,000

Mid September    Guadalajara                                    2nd                     6,233

Mid September    Murcia                                            2nd                   17,900

Mid September    Salamanca                                      2nd                   10,858

Mid September    Valladolid                                       2nd                    11,310

Late September   Logroño                                          2nd                   10,850                              

Late September   Madrid, Las Ventas                        1st                    23,500

Late September   Talavera de la Reina                       3rd                     8,700

Early October      Zafra                                              3rd                     4,858

Mid October        Zaragoza                                        1st                    14,346

Late October       Jaén                                               2nd                   11,500


* These represent ferias whose dates can change according to the Easter religious calendar.